This was not exactly how we expected to start our trip. Sweating like a pig, stomping up and down 65⁰ muddy mountain inclines, stomachs twisting in cramps, and with 3 more days of this laying ahead. When we first decided to start our adventure in Colombia we wanted to begin with a trek to La Ciudad Perdida (The Lost City). We believed a 4 day hike to ancient Colombian ruins deep in the jungle would be an unforgettable experience. We surely got what we wanted, plus lots of pain, surprise, danger, infections, exhaustion, and most importantly, triumph.

Day 1:

We booked the trip right through our hostel and were picked up at 9am to begin the adventure. Once we had our bills squared away at the office, the 2 of us and our 6 newest friends set off on the ride up to the trek’s starting point in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, El Mamey. The drive from Santa Marta is about 1.5 hours.

Once we got there, they started us off with a huge plate of food. It’s almost as if they were warning us to the amount of fuel and energy we would need for the next 4 days. We got a quarter fried chicken, rice, beans, patacones (smashed and fried plantains), a little salad, and juice. While the 8 of us were eating and beginning the standard new acquaintance small talk, a group of 4 arrived back from their trek and looked totally wrecked. They didn’t talk to each other, only staring off into space, and one guy slowly limped to the bathroom at one point. Needless to say, we took that as a sign we may not be entirely prepared for what’s in store the next 4 days.

The first step on day 1 is to stop a map that shows how the next 4 (or 5) days and your route will go – almost 31 miles (50km) round trip. The first day is about 3-4 hours of hiking to the first camp, Alojamiento de Adán. It began with a quick river crossing then we followed a road uphill.

Along the way there are 2 stands to rest at where you can buy water, Gatorade, beer, pop, and your guide may provide fruit. The day ends with a muddy downhill to camp for the night. The first day eased us into what the next 3 days of our lives will be. It is hot, humid, and very very sweaty. Oh, and absolutely gorgeous. The terrain is typically going up or down (at least those are the only parts I remember at this point), and there are a lot of mud and rocks to navigate. Oh and donkeys, but we will get more into that later. Will had a much rougher day than the rest of us, battling dehydration and intestinal issues. Be sure to drink lots of water and prepare yourself for the rest – most of us did not escape intestinal problems.

Each camp is set off the river so there is the opportunity to jump in for a quick, cool, refreshing dip before showers and dinner. At the first camp, we crossed a sketchy, bouncy bridge to get to our bunks. There are plenty of beds at all the camps, but if you were interested in sleeping in a hammock, those are available as well if you ask your guide. The beds are pretty basic but come with a sheet, blanket and mosquito net. We quickly changed into our bathing suits and jumped into the river from a 3m rock. It was cool, refreshing, and the perfect way to rest our muscles.

After a swim and a shower came dinner. Again, it was huge. They know the amount of activity we are doing so you get fed accordingly, and then some. Our first night was with a whole fried fish, rice, beans, patacones, a little salad, and juice. After we also always got a little something sweet like a package of Oreos or some chocolate covered rice crispy-like treats.

While the food was settling before bed, our guide, along with an English-speaking translator, gave a great talk about the region, the history, and the regional indigenous tribes. The first day you primarily hike through government owned land, but the 2^nd day you enter indigenous regions. Our guide spoke with us about the 2 of the 4 tribes in the region, the Wiwa and Kogi, who we would encounter in the next days.

Bed time came pretty early, our guide informed us that he would be around to wake us up for breakfast the next morning at 5:30am.

Day 2

The mattresses were not the most comfortable. Most people did not get the best sleep of their lives on this trip, but that’s all part of the fun..right!? Anyways, 5:30am rolls around, and a tapping on all the beds with “Buenos días!” pulled us from our dreams and shallow sleep for the next day – a full day with 8-9 hours of hiking. After everyone was ready, breakfast was served with coffee or tea. We got a big plate of eggs, toast, fruit and a juice. If you do this trek eat every single bite. Do it. It’s going to be a long day.

The terrain started off with little hills, up and down, and some river crossings until lunch. The lunch location was also a camp we would be staying at on the third night, and is at the bottom of a rather large downhill. That downhill was when we first began to think of the consequences of returning the same route on the last day. Our translator told us not to worry, by day 4 we would be pros and could run up and down the mountains. We were skeptical.

This place was set off the river and was an aaamaaazing place to wash off the sweat and grit from the morning hike while lunch was being prepared. It was also a good place to put our clothes out to dry, as it was during the day and quite sunny. At night nothing dries in the cool humidity of the mountains.

Lunch! A big old bowl of soup with a heaping side of rice. Again, eat it. All of it.

After lunch came what felt like one of the bigger pushes of the trek for me. It started with going past the first Wiwa village of the trek, then a very very large uphill. There are not many switch backs, and when there are, they don’t really change the angle much. Once we reached the top, there was another place to buy water and our guide had some fruit to help recharge. Once there, it would be only 1.5 hours to the 2^nd camp that is much more neutral, though still some up and downhill.

The 2^nd night camp is only 2km away from La Ciudad Perdida. I was getting quite sore and was sweaty and dirty so decided to shower instead of swimming, but there was the option to go swimming there as well. Here our guide served us coffee and popcorn while we waited for dinner. It was pretty heavenly feeling the warmth flow through my bones as my feet and legs were beginning to catch on that we should be in pain.

Dinner! Another quarter chicken, rice, salad, desert, juice. Again, eat it. Eat all of it. This was when I first became aware of the epidemic striking our group and what I’m pretty sure was a majority of other groups. I was soon to be next to join those desperate for a bathroom.

After dinner our guide began prepping us for the Lost City. We would have a wake up call the next day at 5am and hike the 2km in and the 1,200 steps up and spend about 2 hours in the city. He then told us all to go to bed, we were too tired to hear any more.

7:30pm, bed time.

Day 3

*Tap tap tap* “Buenos dias!!” “Levantate!” *Tap tap tap* “Get up!”

Personally my worst night of sleep on the trek and my inauguration into the diarrhea club. Day 3 was going to be tough.

Will and I were worried about weight, so we brought 1 shirt for the first 3 days and 1 for the last. Over the trek, the humidity is so high, you are drenched all day and nothing dries overnight. I was pretty grumpy that morning putting on the same cold, sweaty clothes, maybe it wouldn’t have killed me to bring 1 more tank top.

Breakfast! The meals began getting bigger and bigger. Today breakfast was coffee/tea, juice, eggs, fruit, 2 arepas, one plain and one stuffed with cheese. I had a bit of nausea and stomached about half. But if you go on this trek, eat it. Eat all of it.

The time before we set off consisted of most of us passing around the toilet paper and preparing to go to the city. We would be going back through the same camp and have lunch after the city, so we left most of our stuff behind. Will and I took one backpack with a camera, waters, insect repellent and sunscreen.

The short hike to the stairs was pretty painless and not too much of a grade. Once we got to the stairs, it was fairly steep and the steps were fairly narrow. However, they are the old stone steps so 1,200 feels more like 500. That was a nice surprise, though I was definitely preparing to go down on my butt.

La Ciudad Perdida is gorgeous. If you are on this trek and are having a tough time and asking yourself “why am I here?” I can tell you, you’ll figure it out. There is not much known about the city other than what can be archaeologically deduced from few remains or through shaman stories, as the Tayrona people left no written record. But it is amazing to see all the terraces dot their way up the mountain surrounded by wild jungle and waterfalls in the distance. You’ll be glad that you found it. After about 2 hours of photos, snacks, and learning, we headed back down and to the camp.

Lunch! Meat with sauce, rice, lentils, salad, juice, desert. I did not eat it all. I paid the price that afternoon as I was running dangerously low on energy towards the end of the day. So if you go, eat it. Eat all of it.

Next began the hike back. Now you know what to expect with the terrain as you go back exactly the way you came. But here comes my next warning: try to stay aware of the donkeys. They are constantly going up and down the mountain carrying goods to the camps and villages and some of the trails are quite narrow. We had a close call when one popped out of nowhere, but all was good! Just keep your eyes aware, even when you’re tired!

The hike after lunch on the 3^rd day was my most painful stretch of the hike. But we made it to the final camp that night, excited/nervous that we had only 6 hours and 12 km left to go.

Dinner! Pasta, tons of cheesy delicious pasta to get all carbed up for the last day. I ate it. I ate all of it. The final educational section of the trip was a Wiwa man who came into the camp to teach us about a few of their traditions. He provided us with a lot of information about boys from a young age through adulthood, though I heard they share different information with different groups.

Bed time was shortly after. I think we made it until 8pm.

Day 4

*Tap tap tap* “Buenos Días! Get up!” *Tap tap tap*

Fresh clothes! Glorious, wonderful, non-smelly fresh clothes! An almost full night’s sleep! Not 1 but TWO grilled cheese sandwiches for breakfast! Maybe our translator was right, by day 4 you’re an old hiking pro!

The 4^th day started with a huge uphill. But it did feel different. No matter how sore and grumpy I was the night before, I was ready to go. At that point, it’s hard, you’re achy, you’re sweaty, you’re smelly, you’re itchy, but it’s all a part of you. You finally lay eyes on that same map from the very beginning and sit in the same seat for lunch at which you started your journey what feels like a lifetime ago. It was a victorious, jolly lunch with the strangers we met in the truck who through pain, sweat, and intestinal problems are now like old friends. Then it was time for the final drive back home to Santa Marta.

What We Packed

• 2 Shirts (like I said in the post, I may spring for a 3^rd if I were to do it again. Will would not “You get sweaty in 2 minutes anyways” – he’s right, you do.)
• 1 Hiking pant/shorts to wear everyday
• 2 Pairs of Socks (again, wouldn’t have killed me to bring a couple more, but it’s doable if you are worried about weight)
• 4 Pairs of Underwear – I brought 1 for each day
• 1 Bathing suit
• Clean set of clothes for the camps at night – it can get chilly in the mountains so long pants and a sweater would be a good idea
• 1 Pair of good solid shoes – a few in our group lost their soles on the way. It is very very humid and you cross a lot of rivers and mud. Make sure your shoes are in good working condition, it’s a tough hike for your shoes too.
• 1 Pair of flip flops – Good for showers, nights, and trips to the river

• Bottle of water – You can buy some at the stops along the way and they will have treated water for you at each campsite
• Quick Dry Towel
• Flashlight or Head Lamp – It’s pretty dark at night
• Camera
• Sunscreen
• Insect Repellent – We had 40% Deet that worked really well when you actually applied it (The insects WILL find you if you aren’t diligent)
• Sunglasses/Hat
• Toothbrush/toothpaste
• Shampoo/Conditioner/Soap
• Toilet Paper – At night there will always be toilet paper at the place or with your guide. It is always nice to have your own stash for the trail

*Things I would consider bringing next time: small cream for any burns or chafing, small antibiotic cream for bites and scratches, bandaids

*Keep in mind it is very humid. Everything is damp. We brought playing cards not in a Ziploc bag and they are ruined. Keep important electronics and paper products zipped tight.

This was both Will’s and my first 4 day trek. It was hard, painful, and sweaty, but it was so so worth it. We were constantly pushed to our limits but in the end succeeded and loved, maybe not every minute of it, but loved it as a whole. The hike is difficult, but if you feel ready, we would 100% recommend you go find La Ciudad Perdida!